Like many barbecue joints in our area, this folksy spot aims to please Memphis expats, North Carolinians, and lots of other types of barbecue lovers. It’s rare, though, that the multi-regional approach succeeds as it does here. Go for a combo plate, which lets you try a few of the meats, including a quarter rack of St. Louis–style wet pork ribs—its bark sticky and dark—and chopped pork bathed in vinegary sauce. While the slices of plain brisket don’t do much for us, the Arkansas beef, in which hunks of fatty brisket are drenched in sweet, brick-red sauce, is worth driving an hour to taste.

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